Why it is important to prime before you repair holes in your playground rubber surface

What happens when you don't prime the hole in your rubber safety surface

I often get asked this question, even from seasoned installers: Is it important to prime before filling a poured in place rubber hole or crack? Let me put this to rest in this article. Not only is it important, but absolutely essential to a successful PIP repair. Whether you are repairing a hole, a large crack or a gap between the rubber safety surface and concrete curb. I have seen way too many repairs simply delaminate a few months after the repair because they were not primed properly. 

A piece of poured in place rubber starting to detach because it was not properly primed.
In th above image you can see how the PIP patch is already lifting off because the edges were not primed before troweling the poured in mix.


 

When you mix your EPDM rubber granules in any PIP repair kits you use, the granules are well coated on each side with binder, which makes them adhere to each other very well. But, when the surface they are filling is not primed, they don't have the required bond that will last. This would be like trying to join two piece of lumber by applying glue to only one piece of lumber. The bond is simply not as strong as if they both had glue. What happens is soon after the repair, simple physics, like foot traffic and kids pulling at the edges of the repair take over, meaning the end of that patch.
Bad poured in place rubber repair job
What happens when a poured in repair is not done without priming


The anatomy of good PIP priming

For a successful repair job on your poured in surface, two things need to happen:

1) You need to pick a good primer. A well balanced primer is easy to apply. it is diluted just enough for it to spread well and be well absorbed by the substrate while having the bonding strength needed to withstand the times and abuse the surface gets by kids and adults alike. A good PIP primer is aliphatic based so it has the right UV resistance but also won't stain your surface if overapplied. A good primer has dilutants that will not harm existing surfaces. (At Trassig, we have developed a Poured in place Primer that meets all these conditions. That's why we include it with all our wear layer repair kits). A question that comes up sometimes is why can't I use a regular binder to prime? I never thought that was a good solution because the regular binder will never have the spread and penetration capabilities of a good primer. There is also the risk of hardening your surface, which is unacceptable.

2) You need to apply the primer to the right surfaces. In the case of holes and cracks, you need to apply the PIP primer (usually with a cheap brush) to the sides of the EPDM wear layer as well as the entire base layer. If you are repairing a gap, you will need to prime the wall and base of whatever perimeter you are dealing with, whether it is concrete, wood, or plastic borders. In short, anything your mix will touch needs to be primed.

 

Priming the edge of your PIP hole is important
Priming the edge of your wear layer around the perimeter of the hole is key 


A good practice is to start priming the hole or the gap right after you make the cut. You will prime the edges of the cut as well as the base (or buffing layer) before you start mixing your repair kit. You should not wait hours between priming and troweling especially when the temperature is high. You need to start troweling while the primer is fresh.

well primed base layer in a poured in place rubber system
This is what a well primed base layer should look like. (Shiny) same for the edges.

 

I will end with this. Having spent 20 years the poured in place  install, repair and maintenance  business, I have come to the conclustion that if you don't prime the poured in place area you are repairing, might as well not repair it. Priming is an integral part of these types of repairs.

As always, I am available to answer any questions you might have about the subject. I can be reached at hal@trassig.com

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